The tall-toqued Frenchmen who once manned the most important restaurants in Dallas are gone. In their place are tattooed chefs riffing off classic French bistro cuisine. The boys at Boulevardier push les limites in a good way. The charcuterie and accompaniments are house-made, the onion soup is traditionally complex, and the saffron-scented bouillabaisse is full of shrimp, clams, mussels, and octopus. You’ll find joie de vivre at the bar, where patrons eat fresh oysters and sip cocktails you won’t find in Paris.